Visiting a Magical Landscape of H.C. Andersen's Birthplace in Denmark

In the mirror, I seem to have on oversized gilded pantaloons, seen only to me. Children play in a water feature imitating mermaids, and in the next room sits a talking pea in a showcase, alongside a imposing pile of bedding. It embodies the domain of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), one of the 1800s widely adored storytellers. I’m in Odense, situated in the island of Fyn in the south of Denmark, to investigate the writer's lasting influence in his native city a century and a half after his demise, and to discover a few enchanted tales of my own.

The Exhibition: H.C. Andersen's House

The H.C. Andersen Museum is the local cultural center celebrating the author, including his original residence. A museum representative explains that in earlier iterations of the museum there was scant attention on the author's tales. His personal history was explored, but The Ugly Duckling were absent. For guests who come to Odense looking for storytelling magic, it was not quite enough.

The redevelopment of Odense city centre, diverting a primary street, made it possible to reconsider how the renowned native could be honored. A major architecture competition gave the Japanese company the renowned designers the commission, with the curators’ new approach at the heart of the structure. The distinctive wooden museum with interwoven curving spaces launched to significant attention in 2021. “Our goal was to design an environment where we don’t talk about the author, but we talk like Andersen: with comedy, satire and outlook,” notes the expert. Even the gardens embrace this concept: “This is a landscape for explorers and for large beings, it's created to give you a sense of smallness,” he notes, a goal achieved by thoughtful gardening, manipulating verticality, scale and many winding paths in a surprisingly compact space.

Andersen's Impact

He authored multiple autobiographies and regularly contradicted himself. HC Andersens Hus takes this approach seriously; frequently the views of his acquaintances or fragments of letters are shown to gently question the his narrative of incidents. “The author is the storyteller, but he’s not reliable,” says the curator. The result is a engaging whirlwind tour of Andersen’s life and creations, mental approaches and most popular tales. It’s provocative and playful, for adults and children, with a bonus lower-level imaginary world, Ville Vau, for the smallest guests.

Exploring Odense

Returning to the actual city, the small city of the municipality is delightful, with cobbled streets and historic timber buildings finished in cheerful shades. The author's presence is everywhere: the traffic lights display the storyteller with his distinctive characteristic hat, brass footprints provide a no-cost pedestrian route, and there’s a art walk too. Every August this focus peaks with the annual storytelling event, which marks the author’s legacy through art, movement, theatre and musical performances.

Recently, the seven-day festival had numerous performances, most of which were complimentary. While visiting the city, I meet painted stilt-walkers, spooky creatures and an writer impersonator narrating adventures. I experience feminist spoken-word pieces and witness an incredible nocturnal display featuring athletic artists lowering from the city building and dangling from a construction equipment. Upcoming events this year are presentations, creative sessions for all ages and, expanding the oral history beyond Andersen, the city’s annual Magic Days festival.

Every excellent fairytale destinations need a castle, and Fyn boasts over a hundred manors and estates around the area

Biking Adventures

Similar to most of Denmark, bikes are the perfect means to get about in the city and a “bicycle route” meanders through the downtown area. Starting at Hotel Odeon, I ride to the complimentary waterside bathing area, then out of town for a circuit around Stige Island, a small island connected by causeway to the primary land. City residents have outdoor meals here in the evening, or appreciate a quiet hour catching fish, aquatic activities or swimming.

In town, I dine at the themed restaurant, where the culinary offerings is based on author-inspired concepts and tales. The verse the patriotic piece is highlighted during my meal, and proprietor the host recites passages, rendered in English, as he serves every dish. It’s an experience commonplace in my visit, the local residents love a yarn and it feels as though narrating is constantly on the menu here.

Manor House Visits

All good magical places require a palace, and this region features over a hundred manors and stately homes throughout the region. Going on excursions from Odense, I visit the historic fortress, the region's most intact Renaissance water castle. Although large sections are accessible to the public, Egeskov is also the private residence of Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and his partner, the royal resident. I wonder if she might sense a small legume through a pile of {mattresses

James Robertson
James Robertson

A seasoned fintech journalist with over a decade of experience covering blockchain trends and regulatory developments.